Substance chemistrybiology

Musk: from the deer's gland to the bottle

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Entering Lady Shenmei’s chambers, Maomao immediately identifies the smell of musk and judges it “a curious blend.” The remark says a great deal about her training: recognizing a substance by smell and instantly assessing how well it harmonizes with other components is a diagnostic skill in its own right within court pharmacology. For an apothecary, the nose is a working instrument as reliable as the scale.

The subject in depth

Raw musk is secreted by the musk gland, an organ located on the abdomen of the musk deer (Moschus moschiferus), a small, solitary deer of Central Asia’s mountain forests

Diagram of the musk deer and the chemical structure of muscone, a sixteen-carbon macrocyclic ketone
A sixteen-carbon ring molecule evaporates slowly, so it lasts

[Wikipedia] . Only adult males possess this gland, which produces a brownish, granular substance with an intensely animalic odor. In imperial China, musk was used in court perfumes, ritual incense, and medicinal preparations believed to have stimulating and emmenagogue properties.

The molecule responsible for the characteristic scent is muscone, or (R)-(+)-muscone, a macrocyclic ketone with the formula C₁₆H₃₀O [Wikipedia] . Its sixteen-carbon ring structure, with a single carbonyl group, sets it apart from floral or citrus fragrances: macrocyclic molecules evaporate slowly, which explains musk’s remarkable persistence on skin and textiles. In perfumery, this slow evaporation makes it a fixative, a substance that holds back and prolongs the other components of a fragrance accord. Muscone was isolated and identified in 1906 by the Austrian chemist Ernst Späth, and its macrocyclic structure was clarified in 1926 by Leopold Ruzicka, who would receive the Nobel Prize in Chemistry in 1939, in part for this work on terpenes and macrocyclic substances.

The concentration of muscone in the gland is low, and the scent of raw musk is complex: it combines muscone with other components, including steroids and fatty acids, producing that animalic, powdery, warm note that Maomao perceives. Even highly diluted, muscone remains perceptible at concentrations below a microgram per liter of air, ranking musk among the most powerful odorants known.

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